The process
I’ve just come to the end of a pretty fun experience that hopefully marks the start of many more surfing adventures.
Katy Whear
Dato!
The Datsun 120y.
It’s funny how something so insignificant can make a trip or period of time so memorable.
What lies beneath
I seem to have missed a lot of the decent swells this winter. I swear there’s been a recurring pattern of good waves during the hours of 9-5, then as soon as the weekend swings around so does the wind. Or it’s flat. Or choppy. You get my drift.
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Queen Bee
Australian longboarder Belinda Baggs’ graceful surfing style makes her one of the most instantly recognisable female gliders. Deeply insightful and highly in tune with nature and her surroundings, her love of the ocean has not only seen her surfing waves all over the world but also try to give a little back, offering help by bringing supplies to communities struggling in the aftermath of the Indian Ocean tsunami and acting as an ambassador for environmental awareness.
Braving the cold
I love Christmas and all its traditions, but there’s one tradition I abhor. At 11am on Boxing Day the local surfers and lifeguards of Portreath strip off to their bare essentials, exposing pasty, flabby winter bodies, hoon across the beach and plunge into the frigid waters of the North Atlantic.
This is a tradition that has been going on years, since the surf club was founded in the fifties, and now happens at beaches all over the country.
